A Travellerspoint blog

BEZGRANICZNA (borderless, boundless)

WARSAW

all seasons in one day 8 °C

"When life offers you a dream so far beyond any of your expectations, it's not reasonable to grieve when it comes to an end."

Back to Warsaw. Back to reality. Back to snowy streets.
We got back just in time for Christmas and New Year's celebrations, but once 2010 has started we had to figure out what we were going to do with our lives... We thought and thought and thought, and one day Asia had a great idea: let's open a travel oriented restaurant! We both love food so much, and we brought fantastic recipes from our travels. We had the support of our parents, who encouraged us all the way through those hard times... but finally on September 8th, 2010 BEZGRANICZNA opened its door. Come check it out for yourself!

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Grzybowska 2 lokal 20
Warsaw, Poland
www.bezgraniczna.pl

Posted by kreglicka 16.09.2010 09:31 Archived in Poland Comments (0)

Caribbean Winds

Sint Maarten, Saint Barths, Anguilla

sunny 30 °C
View Asia and Olga's Wanderlust on kreglicka's travel map.

“Sailing is just the bottom line, like adding up the score in bridge. My real interest is in the tremendous game of life.”

The adventure of a lifetime was coming to an end. We said goodbye to our scuba buddies, crossed the island (in a cab this time, cuz our luxury vacation wasn't over), and headed to see our families. We haven't seen them for the past 350 days, and missed them way too much. We spent a week sailing on a catamaran from one Caribbean island to the next. It was relaxing and beautiful, but most of all it was a chance to spend quality time with our families. After an amazing week, we headed back to Poland, back to reality...

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Posted by kreglicka 16.09.2010 02:12 Archived in Saint Martin Tagged boating Comments (0)

Diving Safari

Saint Kitts, Saba, Statia, Sint Maarten

sunny 27 °C
View Asia and Olga's Wanderlust on kreglicka's travel map.

"If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water."

Everything in Trinidad seemed too perfect... so we weren't really surprised when trouble awaited us at the airport. Since for the past month I was travelling with my whole kite equipment; I had 3 luggages, but I thought I would just give one to Asia, and we would be all set to go. Turns out you can only check in one luggage with LIAT airlines, believe me fitting my kite into already full backpack, and attaching my kiteboard to it so it resembles one luggage was almost impossible, but somehow we managed, and we made it to the plane last minute.

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After a layover in Antigua, we finally arrived in St. Kitts. The problem with Caribbean island is that there are no hostels due to lack of backpackers. We definitely didn't fit among happy honeymooners, retired Americans, and Europeans on luxury vacations. We managed to find a decently priced posada for that one night before starting our diving cruise.

The moment we stepped on the boat, our way of travelling changed. Suddenly we were not backpacking anymore, we were on luxury vacation! Real luxury vacation!

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6 days on a great boat, with delicious food, and open bar :) We were the youngest people on the boat, but the crowd was so much fun! We shared our meals with two hilarious men - an American psychiatrist and French-Canadian lawyer. They made that week so much more fun!!
And the Caribbean Explorer crew was amazing as well!

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Of course we didn't go there to lie on the deck all day. We did 5 dives every day!!! 4 amazing day dives and a night dive every evening going from one location to another in the area of St. Kitts, Saba and Statia!

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We saw lobsters, crabs, eagle rays, baby sharks, frogfish, turtles, octopus, seahorses, murrays, and my all time favorite - trunkfish!
We both love love love underwater world, and had the most fantastic time!

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Posted by kreglicka 15.06.2010 07:11 Archived in St Kitts/Nevis Comments (0)

And we laughed again!

Trinidad & Tobago

sunny 30 °C
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“When you realize how perfect everything is you will tilt your head back and laugh at the sky.”

We were welcomed in Trinidad by smiley people and reggae beats -we felt happy again!

Unfortunately we arrived late at night, 20km away from the city, public transportation wasn't working anymore, we didn't have any TT$ and we definitely couldn't afford a cab. But just as our smiles came back, so did our luck - in Trinidad and Tobago (who would have even thought we would end up here)!
A kind man of Indian descent offered us a ride. He was a taxi driver that was waiting to pick up someone from the ferry, who never showed up. He took us straight to the hotel, and wanted no money for the ride! On the way he told us a lot about the island and its customs. Our guidebook didn't even cover this part of the world, so we had no hostel references, and let our guide pick one for us (in our budget range of course!). It was one of the nicest places we stayed at (not counting our friends' houses of course). We ordered pizza, and spent the night watching "Grey's"... and we were laughing again!

During my college days I was lucky to befriend Jordan, a Trinidad native, who gave us some tips about Port of Spain. Following his recommendations we headed to the Maracas Beach. While looking for the bus that would take us there, we bumped into a Polish sailor, who was going to work in the Caribbean for a few months at a ship, and although it wasn't even noon yet, we decided to celebrate this random meeting with a few beers at a local bar (turns out Trinidadians have no problems with breakfast beers).

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Already tipsy we all went to find the mini bus going to the beach, and as usually in Latin America we were directed to a million different places, but after a healthy 45 minute walk we found it!

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We rode for an hour up and down curvy road to the other side of the island, beautiful Maracas beach.

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We had to try Trinidad's ultimate beach food - bake and shark - and we headed to Richard's stand, recommended by Jordan. This Trini sandwich definitely competes with the avocado cheese sandwich from Colca Canyon! Yummy!

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After a lovely beer, beach, 'bake' day we headed back to our hotel and got some sleep before our 6am flight.
When leaving our hotel at 4am we knew we had to go back to Trinidad one day. Great food, great music, great people, great landscapes, great time!

Posted by kreglicka 15.06.2010 05:37 Archived in Trinidad and Tobago Comments (0)

Across Venezuela

Venezuela

sunny 28 °C
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“Disappointment to a noble soul is what cold water is to burning metal; it strengthens, tempers, intensifies, but never destroys it.”

We left our last magical ceremony in a hurry - 30minutes to the bus station, 2hours to Bogota, 15minutes to the bus terminal, we made it! Our bus to Venezuela was leaving at 9am, or at least that's what the website said... Turns out there are no more buses that go from Bogota to Venezuela. There's one that goes to Cucuta, which is at the border, then you have to cross the border by foot, and take another bus wherever you want to go. And the bus to Cucuta doesn't leave at 9am, it leaves at noon. So we waited... And after 14 hours of bus ride we arrived in scary border town. We took at taxi to Venezuela, and after waking up all the possible border guards we finally got our passport stamps.

We spent the next few hours at a dirty bus terminal waiting for the first bus, that would get us closer to Guiria. We had no Venezuelan money, so we tried to exchange some at the black market (the official exchange rate $1=2bolivars, and on the black market it can even be $1=5bolivars). Unfortunately the best rate we could get was $1=3bolivars, and since we needed money for the bus, we had no choice...
We ended up taking about 3buses, and a collectivo cab, which all lasted more than 30hours... People directed us to wrong bus terminals, and confused us, they tried to cheat us on the exchange rates, and in general it was a tough tough trip...

We were in a big hurry, because there's only one ferry that leaves Venezuela for Trinidad, and it leaves on Wednesdays. And on Friday we had a plane from Trinidad to St. Kitts.

We finally arrived in Guiria, overpaid for the night at a hotel, and woke up ready to leave Venezuela... Only that it turned out we didn't have enough cash to pay for the ferry!! What are we gonna do? Charging the tickets to our credit cards would be nonsense, cuz instead of paying about $120 for each ticket we would have paid $300... After one very stressful hour we convinced the cashier to issue us tickets, and let us pay in Trinidad, where crazy exchange rates are not an issue :)

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Adios Venezuela!

Posted by kreglicka 12.06.2010 07:22 Archived in Venezuela Comments (1)

Yage Family

Bogota

semi-overcast 15 °C
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"Friends are family you choose for yourself."

After an all night bus we were happy to be back in our favorite hostel in Bogota - Platypus. We had lunch with Joff, who I met gay-clubbing in Cartagena and bumbed into again in Salento, and just relaxed for the rest of the day. On Friday we visited the incredible Botero Museum, had a walk around Candelaria, and I decided to cut my hair at an artsy hairdresser/cafe/gallery/concert venue/clothes store.

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That evening we met up with Taita Floro and his "familia de Bogota". Very quickly we grew fond of the people that we met before the ceremony, which turned out to be another amazing experience. We were supposed to leave for Venezuela the next day, but we felt such strong connection to our new friends that we decided to stay one extra day and participate in our last "toma de yage" in the magical mountains 2 hours away from Bogota. That night was the most incredible of all, filled with so much happiness. We were officially a part of this Colombian family. It was so hard to say goodbye, but another adventure was awaiting us...

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MONICA

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MARCELA

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ANDREX - Senor Zipa

Posted by kreglicka 30.05.2010 05:33 Archived in Colombia Comments (0)

Zona Cafetera on a horse

Salento

semi-overcast 19 °C
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"All the coffee in Colombia won’t make me a morning person."

The cute town of Salento is surrounded by verdant forests and coffee plantations that stretch for miles and miles and all you can see is green. We spent the evening by the fire with a group of new friends sipping rum and listening to the music, and the next day we met up with Benita again, who said that horseback riding with us is way too much for her, so Asia and I went to explore the valleys of Zona Cafetera (Coffee Zone) by ourselves. It was a fantastic getaway after concrete Cali!

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Posted by kreglicka 30.05.2010 04:43 Archived in Colombia Tagged animal Comments (0)

Salsa, Yoga, Yage, Polish Dinner

Cali, Pereira

sunny 29 °C
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"Yage is space time travel. The room seems to shake and vibrate with motion."

Our bus from San Augustin was supposed to leave at 2pm, but instead we had to take a truck to the crossroads out of the town and wait more than 3hours for it to come.

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We had tickets with reserved seats next to each other, instead Asia had to sit at the front on a broken seat, and I was the very back next to a snoring fat man... The road was bumpy and curvy, and I can say without a doubt that it was the worst bus ride we have experienced so far. Another thing was that the bus was supposed to go to Cali, but when we arrived in Popayan we were told it was the last stop and now we had to wait for an hour for our next bus. Although it was 2am already, we decided to spend the night at a hostel there and head to Cali in the morning.

When we finally arrived to the salsa capital of Colombia, we headed to Darek's friend's apartment where we were going to spend the next few days. Zarahi is a language teacher and a yoga instructor, so before heading out that night we had a private yoga class - so relaxing!
We had a few drinks with Zarahi and her friends at her rooftop, then went bar hopping, and we finally ended up in front of a salsa bar, where we met a bunch of crazy people -kitesurfers and artists that had very indecent proposals...

Friday, November 20th, 2009 was the day that changed our lives forever. We met with a shaman (Taita Floro) that we contacted through Darek, and participated in our first ayahuasca taking ceremony. There are no words in the English dictionary, or any other for that matter, to describe what we felt... It is a totally different experience for each person, but for us it was full of tranquility and pure happiness. So we follow Taita to Pereira for another ceremony...

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On Sunday we went to Zarahi's friends' country house located on one of the mountains surrounding Cali. We met Sylvia and Ivan on Thursday, and we planned a traditional Polish dinner together. Once again we made chlodnik (Polish cold soup), sausages and potato pancakes. Sylvia made Brazilian dessert- brigadeiro- and everything turned out to be a great success :)

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After dinner Zarahi and I went to meet Floro for a private ceremony...
After sleeping off all those ceremonies (they last all night) on Monday, we left Cali on Tuesday morning.

Posted by kreglicka 30.05.2010 02:58 Archived in Colombia Tagged events Comments (1)

Horses and pre-Colombian ceremonial sites with Benita

San Augustin

semi-overcast 23 °C
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"To me, horses and freedom are synonymous."

We left Bogota with The Killers in our ears. Destination: San Augustin.
After visiting the archeological park known for its pre-Columbian statues, we went into town where we met up with our LOKI bar coworker, Benita. I love the world of backpackers, it’s so small, we always follow similar routes, and the probability of meeting someone again is quite high! The next day the three of us and Benita’s Swiss friend went on a horseback riding trip through the green hills of Huila, stopping to admire more UNESCO sites. I lied a little bit to the guide saying that I am an experienced horseback rider, and got a horse called Moro Loco (Dappled Madman), which assured that my adrenaline levels were high!

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Posted by kreglicka 29.05.2010 13:16 Archived in Colombia Tagged animal Comments (0)

Utila CM reunion, Darius "Canival" Slusarczyk & THE KILLERS!

Bogota

overcast 14 °C
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“Each friend represents a world in us, a world possibly not born until they arrive, and it is only by this meeting that a new world is born.”

Our time in Bogota was limited, but we used it well. We stayed in La Candelaria, a historic part of the city, which is a great neighborhood to explore. The first night we met up with our scuba diving instructors from Utila, Fez and Nico, in Zona Rosa - heart of the nightlife in Bogota with lots of pubs, bars, lounges, and clubs, filled with fashionable men in leather jackets, and beautiful women in short skirts. We ordered a few beers at a Beer Company, where we also had a brief meeting with a Polish friend, Darius; then we headed to a club, where we danced for a few hours and were fed aguardiente shots every 5 minutes by Nico, who’s a Colombian native.

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The next day we had lunch with Darius. The conversation with him led to big changes in our lives… Darius spent 2 months traveling with a Taita (as shamans in Colombia are called), and participated in about 20 ayahuasca taking ceremonies. His stories, which are only his to share, were so incredible, that we decided to meet with his Taita as soon as possible, especially that a shamanistic ceremony was on our “dream list” from the very beginning of this trip, but all the Shamans we met on our way gave us shivers...

That evening another big event took place - THE KILLERS concert!!!!

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The journey to the venue took more than two hours, and we got there in the middle of the first song… but it was so worth the time and money (we had to take an extremely expensive (for our budget) taxi); it was one of the best musical performances I have ever been to. The Killers is one of those bands that sounds much better live than on a CD, and Brandon Flowers was our god for those 90 minutes…

Posted by kreglicka 29.05.2010 13:10 Archived in Colombia Tagged events Comments (0)

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